Brad Lichtenstein 9/29/19 Brad Lichtenstein 9/29/19

Matcha Travels through London and Nice

This year my trip around the globe took me to London and to Nice! Such an amazing trip, yet a tug of war arises within that leaves me deeply struggling to reconcile the two sides - the one side of me that LOVES travel, seeing new places, experiencing new cultures, discovering new teahouses in which to sip an afternoon away, and the socially, environmentally conscious side that knows I am contributing to climate change no matter how may carbon credits to offset my footprint I purchase. Meditating on my personal and direct impact leaves me questioning and searching.

I was only in London for a few days, so I had to pack as much matcha tasting in as possible, given that I had other plans in the city. Prior to landing, I received only a few suggestions from some of my matcha loving friends on social media of places to visit. London is not the first place you think of visiting for Japanese teas. Had I longed for traditional English high tea, my cup would have runneth over. However, London is the home of one of my first matcha loves - the Matchaeologist. While they do not have a physical store, several of their products are stocked by specialist tea and coffee shops throughout London (like WA Cafe, a small, independent Japanese patisserie making Japanese breads and pastries daily on-site in their Covent Gardens location). Before my departure, I messaged the Matchaeologist and they shared how they often provide free next-day shipping to UK hotels. I was so tempted, but I was already traveling with my stash of their matcha, and I anticipated purchasing new brands during my travels, which I did.

We arrived at 8 AM in Trafalgar Square, dropped off our bags at our hotel, and headed to the TKTS booth to get tickets for a show that evening. Along the way we passed Japan Center and stopped in for a quick matcha latte with soy milk, which was unremarkable, before standing in line. Later that evening, before the show, I stopped into Tsujiri at their Soho location. Sadly I didn’t get to stop at their other location. This storefront lacked the elegance and aesthetic evident in the photos of the their other locations. Most of the patrons that evening were partaking in all the matcha-flavored, dairy delights, but alas, as a dairy-free, gluten-free person, I cannot. However, I was able to get a hardy chawan of matcha and a vegan, Houjicha-flavored dark chocolate bar. I was a tad disappointed, despite it being their higher tier matcha. I find found it a bit flat and bitter with a bit of a stale smell. Still, it was my first official chawan in London. The chocolate bar was fantastic and did not make it until intermission, which was my intention.

Before my spa and massage at the wonderful Corinthia Hotel London, I managed to grab a spot of breakfast accompanied by a very creamy, smooth and delicious, although a tad sweet, almond milk matcha latte. I must say, I fancied the glass cups in which these were served.

Later that evening, we popped over to Harrod’s, mostly to see the whole spectacle of the establishment. The gyokuro I had was a beautiful color, but the temperature of the water was a bit too hot and perhaps steeped a few seconds too long. Still the presentation was lovely, and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the people sipping tea and just taking some leisure time to chat and relax over a cup of tea.

Then I found Katsute100 and I was in heaven. Walking in I knew I found a place I could settled in for a cozy late morning, just taking my time to taste the matcha, teas and Japanese delicacies. Just as the website says, time moves slowly here and I felt unhurried and peaceful. Had I been without a schedule, I would have spent several more hours than I had, drinking tea and writing in the table in the front seating area, looking out the window at the people walking by. The smaller sitting area in the back room feels even more cozy and intimate.

Not only was their limited Heritage matcha smooth, light, buttery and without any bitterness, but their organic ceremonial grade was also light and creamy, despite a tad bit of bitterness. Still the umami finish lingered on my tongue. I purchased some of their ceremonial grade for the rest of my travels.

Had I not been traveling to France after London, I most certainly would have purchased 1 or 2 of the incredible chawan for sale. In fact, upon my return to Seattle, I did find the incredible chawan perfect for fall - autumnal colored leaves and gold-leave painted on the front and inside of the bowl. Captivating.

And of course, the incredibly delicious desserts, which they bake themselves. Whatever was gluten and dairy-free, I ordered, and ate eagerly and with satisfaction, especially the Ichigo Daifuku. YUM!!!! A great accompaniment to the matcha and their incredibly fresh, umami rich gyokuro.

On my next to last night in London, I surprisingly found Minamoto Kitchoan on Strand within a few blocks of my hotel room, despite the fact it did not come up on my search of matcha near my location. The next morning, eager to try a good bowl of pure matcha, no latte, I was served up a frothy paper cup full of matcha. This is primarily a Japanese Confectionery but they offer matcha for takeaway. I was then informed that in their other location in Piccadilly you can actually sit at the single table and drink from a real chawan. With my vigor renewed after emptying the contents of my paper cup, I hiked up to the other location. Matcha is always better in a chawan, but both times the taste was very clean and free from bitterness, but with less of a umami finish. Still, this was higher quality matcha.

Walking to dinner on the last night in the city, my vision caught a storefront with minimalist design, with white walls and a simple font. I turned to discover another treasure, Japan House on Kensington’s High Street. Having some time before my reservations, I went to explore. At the very front of the store is a bar that serves a simple, clean whisked matcha, again served in tiny paper cups. I sipped on my matcha, fresh, clean and bright with good umami, as I wandered about the store. As they post on their website, Japan House is “the new cultural home of Japan in London,” and carries a wide array of art, design, technology and food. Had I not had dinner plans I would have tried their restaurant upstairs.

Since I was still traveling, one item I had not qualms about purchasing was this wooden chawan from Japan House in London. Luckily I had little fear of it breaking. Far from any classic ceramic chawan I have, this bowl doesn’t have the heft and weight to which I am accustom, which makes the entire experience new. Drinking matcha from this chawan then becomes a meditation on lightness and ease. Rather than connect with earth, I try and connect with upward movement, like the trees reaching toward the Sun, and I ask myself, Where is the lightness in my life?

Unfortunately our time was short in London. I was unable to attend several workshops and classes on meditation and meditation and tea that I found once I was in the city. In the future, I will be eager to discover more about the meditation community.

But now, ONWARD TO FRANCE

and …

NICE!!

Unlike London, I could not find a place that served a simple bowl of matcha rather than a matcha latte. However that didn’t keep me from my morning ritual of meditation and matcha, as I was traveling with my utensils. Since I have broken my wooden chasen traveling with it before, I opted to bring my electric whisk - not the same, but it served me well in these incidences.

What was also vastly different from my standard morning routine was the outstanding view. We were staying in a lovely Airbnb in the Port of Nice. Our host had these cute espresso cups, so I would make my matcha and pour it into one, then go sit on the tiny terrace and take in this awe inspiring view. This was my first time to the Mediterranean and I see what all the fuss is about. I have never seen water that blue. These meditation moments were rarely with my eyes closed as I was awash in new sights, sounds, smells and sensation (the heat, the breeze, etc.).

On the first day, however, I had my first matcha latte and just a short ways away from my Airbnb. Badaboom Bistro, a vegan restaurant served up a thick, fully, creamy and satisfying matcha latte with almond and coconut milk. Even so, their vegan cakes and the creme au chocolate made with cashews was absolutely outstanding. I chatted with the lovely owner, Barbara, who has been in Nice for over 16 years (originally from Washington, DC). She shared with me some “sans gluten” and dairy recommendations. If you are needing some wholesome vegan food, please visit Badaboom while in Nice.

I did not find much more in the way of matcha in Nice. But… somewhere in Monaco… wondering how an establishment of fine dining might serve their version of a matcha almond milk latte, I ordered one. Not the best matcha latte, by any means, however, the presentation was lovely.

However my spouse wanted to see Monaco, so we rented a car and drove from Nice! Talk about a meditation practice. I have not driven a stick shift in years, but the skill returned fairly quickly. But the drive itself… First the windy, often single-lane, roads along the French hillside. Yes, it was stunning, when I could tear my eyes away from the road. Then the crazy streets of Monaco with all their merging and exiting lanes weaving in and out with no apparent reason. I practiced my breathing the entire drive and there and back. I don’t think I needed the matcha to keep me awake and focused for the return drive. That night I had dreams of driving all night long.

My trip to London was filled with more matcha experiences, while my trip to Nice provided me more meditation moments - such as staring at the calm, azure waters for hours. Overall, my trip was incredible. Seeing a lack of tea and matcha in Nice, perhaps I should open a meditation and matcha studio there. What do you think?

Brad Lichtenstein 8/21/17 Brad Lichtenstein 8/21/17

On the Hunt for Matcha (and animals) in South Africa

I never dreamt I would travel to South Africa, yet here I am, sipping matcha and sitting on a deck at the Ezulwini Game Lodge in the Balule Nature Reserve (part of the Greater Kruger Nature Reserve) in Limpopo Province, South Africa. Monkeys are playing in the trees within ten feet of where I sit. As is customary for all my travel, foreign or domestic, I carried a supply of tea with me. I worried about taking my bamboo whisk for fear of breaking it, but my issues were resolved when my good friend, in whom I have instilled a newfound addiction, I mean love, for matcha, bought me an electric whisk from DavidsTea (which I think they have now discontinued). While not my favorite whisking method, this electric device is perfect for travel. With a thick cover for easy storage and packing, it also functions as a vessel in which to make your matcha (I simply cannot bring myself to use a synthetic container of any sort, since I believe it destroys the flavor, and I was fortunate to find teacups in every place I stayed).

So here I am, drinking matcha, waiting for the sun to rise and listening to the world come to life. My meditation for the past 4 mornings (and evenings) involved sitting for three hour stretches of time in an open-aired Land Rover, as our guide drove us through the bush on the “hunt” for some animals of South Africa. All of this land outside of the Kruger Nature Reserve, according to one of my guides, is private property, and was primarily hunting lodges where people killed big game as trophies. That all changed 2 decades ago when one of the lodge owners wanted to protect the wildlife, and believed another form of tourism could better help the conservation efforts. They asked the neighboring lodges to drop their fences, to end killing and poaching, and to support nature. Most of the people in the area agreed and now these protected animals are beginning to thrive once more. Sadly, poachers still manage to make their way into these protected, usually seeking the endangered black rhinoceros. In many forms of traditional medicine, rhino horn has been touted for numerous medicinal properties, such as healing inflammatory conditions (arthritis, gout, and fever), GI disturbances (nausea, vomiting and food poisoning), but also headaches, anxiety, and hallucinations. Even though 1n 1993 China banned the trade of rhino horn, the demand for rhino horn is still exists. In fact, as I was leaving the lodge I heard of poachers into Greater Kruger killing some rhinoceros.

On these long drives I practiced being as present as possible to this new and extraordinary moment. Breathing in the fresh cool morning air was invigorating. Riding along, often in silence, I observed my breath and reminded myself to breathe in life - to breathe in the life of this particular time and place, to breathe in the energy of the plants and animals (and people) around me and allow their spirit to fill my lungs, becoming a part of me. As I exhaled, I breathed out gratitude and appreciation for this land. If constriction or tightness crept in to my breathing, I returned to my intention - to fully be present and breathe this moment.

These safari drives were also a meditation on my other senses as well. The arid winter landscape with its brittle grass and trees dazzled my eyes as they changed colors throughout the day from sunrise to sunset. And the animals! Although the trackers and guides spotted most of the animals, scanning the horizon and dirt below to detect any signs of movement became an enjoyable, deliberate and focused meditation in and of itself. Once discovered they would drive us as close a possible, often within a few feet, and I would stare, wide-eyed in awe and wonder at these amazing beings in their natural habitat. Watching a den of sleeping lions, engulfed by a herd of cape buffalo, or surrounded by elephants, including a few newborns, was breathtaking, and furthered my sense of wonder and appreciation.

Before going on safari, however, I spent three days in Cape Town, on the "hunt" for something else - a new locale in my never ending pursuit of matcha. We stayed in Bantry Bay and the location included a view diametrically opposite of the one from my deck in the bush. At Bantry Bay, I had a expansive and equally awe inspiring view of the powerful waves of the Atlantic. Nothing is more calming to me than being lulled to sleep by the sound of waves on the shore. I arrived at my lodgings around 11 PM, after a grueling 24 hours of air travel, and tried sleeping to align my internal clocks with the local time. Somewhat successful, I woke the next day hungry for breakfast. I pulled up my handy list I compiled weeks ago of potential matcha-carrying establishments, and surprisingly the first one was a mere 5 minute walk from my apartment. The Scheckter’s Raw restaurant not only delivered on the matcha front, they had a tasty and healthy breakfast. First off, I ordered an organic matcha almond milk latte. This matcha was much lighter and thinner than the matcha lattes I make or have in the states. However, the almond milk was less sweet. I did not get a sense of bitterness and the color was a pale green. I must have enjoyed it since I ordered a second one before I left, and went back the next day for another. They had other matcha-flavored items on the menu, but my ecstasy at seeing matcha pancakes was short lived, when I found out they contained gluten! Sigh…regardless, I was delighted to discover other healthy, whole food, gluten-free options, like the quinoa porridge made with organic peanut butter, strawberries, bananas and a combination of almond and coconut milk, and a touch of vanilla. Like its name, this was hearty and fulfilling. Yes I highly recommend this place.

Matcha almond milk lattes at Raw Sheckter's

After a sobering visit to Robben Island, we wandered through the V&A Waterfront in search of food, and stumbled across their Food Market. The very first booth I saw sold ice cream, and had non-dairy, coconut matcha ice cream! I wanted to dive right in, but knew I had to eat something more substantial first to justify getting two scoops (for the second I chose peanut butter coconut ice cream - if you haven’t tried this combination, I highly recommend it). While enticing, I wanted the matcha flavor to be a bit more bold and pronounced, but I recognize this might not be everyone’s cup of tea.

Original T Bag Designs in V & A Waterfront

One stop I was certain to make on this trip was to the Original T Bag Designs store in the V & A Waterfront. Initiated by Jill Heyes who moved to South Africa in 1996 with her husband and daughters, she was shocked and overwhelmed by the abject poverty of the people living in settlement of Imizamo Yethu, Hout Bay. Wanting to make a difference, she began teaching the women hand craft skills so they could make something to sell and support themselves financially. Word got out and more and more women came to learn, and the community of woman grew who began teaching one another. The first attempt at art work involved paper mache items, but that was not as successful. Eventually the idea of using something readily available and abundant - used tea bags emerged. Original T Bag Designs concept is to take recycled teabags, dry, empty, iron and then pain them and turn them into functional art products like stationary, wooden boxes, trays, coasters, dish cloths, bracelets and more. Of course, I purchased several items for myself and for gifts. Who knew that my beloved drink could be used to help women gain some independence and help support themselves or their families? Tea can, indeed, change lives. Please remember that any time you are ready to discard your teabag into the trash (please compost if you can, or better yet, make some art).

The last of my matcha discoveries came the next day when I visited Long Street searching for Lady Bonins Tea shop. The driver found 13 Long Street, so I hoped out of the car, naturally assuming that number 12 was nearby, merely across the street. To my consternation, not only could I not see any numbers on the store fronts, no tea establishment was in sight. After wandering several blocks and crossing a major intersection, I reversed direction, and returned back to my drop off location. I continued in the other direction for several more blocks and decided to give up. Perhaps there is another Long Street, I wondered. Deciding to wander around since I was in the area, a block later I found myself facing a sign for Lady Bonins Tea. I asked the gentleman behind the counter about the address, but he explained that the numbers weren’t necessarily sequential. While that defies my concept of logic, I am just glad I found it.

What a find! According to the website, Jessica, aka Lady Bonin, established her business in 2010 as Cape Town’s first food truck and the world’s first Tea Caravan with the mission of bringing organic loose leaf tea, sourced directly from growers who practice sustainable farming and are community driven. Combining her passion for tea and socio-environmental justice fills my heart with such joy. Jessica recognizes that tea can be a significant vehicle for impacting health of individuals, communities, the environment, and the planet! Hopefully if all of us support biodynamic farming and other sustainability efforts, along with living wages for all, monopolistic tea farming corporations that fail to support the land or the people who harvest their tea will gradually decline. Thank you, Jessica, for making a difference in the lives of some many people.

And let’s not forget the shop! The space is divided into three subsections. When you walk in, the first section is the storefront, with one wall lined with all the teas for purchase. The opposite wall has the menu above the counter where they make your tea. In the middle area is somewhat of a small outdoor patio with streaming sunlight, while in the back is more seating and a tea bar where they offer tea tastings and matcha preparation (sadly I was unaware they needed advanced notice or I would have scheduled it). I adore this space and could envision myself sitting in the back for hours talking with friends over some amazing tea.

Lady Bonins Tea - Tea Bar in the back of the store

Once again, I ordered a matcha latte with almond milk. Even before tasting it, I purchased a container of their organic matcha since I loved the packaging, which shares just a bit about matcha's brief history. I did not ask the gentleman behind the counter about the quality, but I believe this was culinary grade. Organic production of matcha is very difficult on the plant, and keeping the soil rich enough to ensuring a powder that is vibrantly deep green in color without any bitterness is challenging. The color here was a bit flatter greener and I did detect more bitterness even through the almond milk. The label did not mention anything about the grade, and I have yet to open it, so I know more once I return to The States. Still, I want to support Lady Bonin and their efforts to make a difference in the world. I only regret not purchasing more of their tea, like sencha, dragonwell or any of their rooibos teas. Lady Bonin, let me know when you ship to the states or open a store there. I will support you!

Matcha almond milk lattes at Lady Bonins Tea

For now, I will drink my ceremonial matcha, prepare for my last day in the bush, give thanks for such an incredible opportunity.